Monday, August 18, 2014
the importance of surfing and having dreams in the eyes of a nobody
Each of us has things that allow us to connect and feel a part of something bigger. the most easily relatable for most people is religion. People gather together to pray and be mindful of where they are in that moment and let go of the pain or suffereing they often feel. since 1999 my church or temple or mosque has been the ocean. The power of the circular motion of waves carrying me forward and the lack of thought required is my form of prayer. The exact moment when the wave picks me up and I stand to my feet feeling the pressure build and then settle has been as close as I get to peace in many years. I don't surf anymore. I attend school, I work, I parent and I sit. I am far from my spirituality in so many ways. Weather the ocean or the woods I dont have a place that most people have like church. I havn't set aside a certain day where that is what I do. This greatly troubles me. How can a person grow up and keep themselves true to who they are at the same time when society calls for us all to be carbon copies of what it beleives success looks like. For me success looks like surfing and hiking and living simply and being poor. Not of soul. Not of character. Just money. In most eyes that is idealism. To me its simply MY dream.
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I can relate Mr. Willens, you chose to put your family and loved ones first before your religion. That's an honorable thing to do. I like to close my eyes when I have five or ten minutes, and visualize myself where ever it is I want to be and I smile. Inside it is as if I were there, with my thoughts it becomes real. The Ocean will wait for you, and welcome you back when you have the time for her. Good to see you and your wife back in class.
ReplyDeleteThis reminds me of a documentary that I watched called "Happy." They explored what most affects the happiness factor of people and found that those that participate in what is called "flow" are the happiest. Flow happens when you do an activity that puts you in the frame of mind where you don't notice time or think about what you are doing at the time. It sounds to me like surfing is your flow. It's hard being a parent and still find time for yourself as an individual, but it's necessary. Take an hour, make arrangements, and do what makes you happy. I can assure you that you will be a better, happier person which always translates into being a better spouse and parent. Just do it and everyone in your life will benefit!! Good luck.
ReplyDeletei wish i could swim better
ReplyDeleteI get what your saying, if it was up to me I would play basketball all day and swim.
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